Marhaba men Al-Maghrib! (Hello from Morocco!)
After a
long, arduous journey including several pit stops in Spain, the relinquishment
of my soul and several hundred dollars to pay for my luggage on a less than
generous airline (coughcough Vueling), and a twelve hour layover in Madrid
where I was offered marijuana by a Spanish-speaking Russian man (don’t worry, I
politely declined the invitation), I arrived in Morocco. This summer, I’m interning at the Center for
Cross Cultural Learning, an educational institute in Rabat that offers a
variety of programs, services, and events that collectively seek to promote
cross-cultural engagement and immersion.
Besides work, I live with a lovely Moroccan family in the heart of the
Old Medina, an illustrious maze of ancient streets and stunning homes that
beautifully preserves classic Moroccan architecture despite a long and icky
c-word by the French (for those of you who don’t know what the c word is, it’s
colonization. I plan on devoting a blog
post to North African and Middle Eastern colonization in the future, but, until
then, just know it’s the incomprehensible demon that keeps me awake at
night). After this summer, I’ll head to
Cairo, Egypt where I plan to study Arabic at the Arabic Language Institute at
the American University in Cairo. Egypt
has been my dream for the past couple of years, and now it’s quite close to
emerging as a tangible reality. Wild,
absolutely fucking wild. But, alas, it’s
only June. I’ve been in Rabat for just
over a week; Morocco, that nebulous and stunning North African gem, deserves
the spotlight for the next couple of months on this blog.
For
those of you who know me well, you know my deep interest in all things Arabic
began in high school and has continued to flourish throughout college. Once upon a time in an ICU hospital room
during a medical internship my senior year of high school, I heard Arabic for
the first time. That afternoon, in a
sort of dubious entrancement, I spent hours listening to Arabic on flimsy YouTube
videos. Later that year, while walking
outside in the midst of a thick, thick Houston summer where the humidity
becomes your persistently sweaty and suffocating companion, goose bumps
trickled down my arm at the thought of traveling to the Arab region.
Studying
Arabic and the Arab world has given my tongue and heart the ride of a lifetime,
but a true education necessitates a thorough, visceral experience outside the
confines of a classroom. And my oh my
have I been beautifully educated within the past week and a half. What a precious, excruciatingly difficult, marvelously
astounding experience it is to have arrived two Sundays ago at the Casablanca
airport where I was immediately engulfed in Arabic, to wake up and go to sleep
to the sound of my host family speaking their Moroccan dialect, to work in a
library surrounded by books and books and books of Arabic, to cluelessly
maneuver my way through streets where strangers boom with a language that,
until now, I’ve only seen in a textbook and heard from my Arabic professor at
Wellesley. Having never left North
America before this, the experience can culminate in unnerving moments of overwhelming
paranoia. Sometimes I have to plop
myself down and have a good cry to release the immensity that is this
place. Not to fret, though, loved
ones! This ain’t easy, but Jillian
Seymour doesn’t do easy. Easy is for
Jillian at 67; easy is for Jillian retired with two divorces under her belt and
a timeshare in Orlando.
This
blog is for my loved ones and for myself.
I will share with you the adventures, the people, and the love I
encounter in this beautiful region.
American media too often portrays the Arab world as violent and terrorized,
while Western historical discourse has molded for its consumers a feminized,
eroticized, and demoralized Orient. Born
and indoctrinated in Texas and fully addicted to Diet Coke (or Coca Cola Light
as it’s termed on this side of the Atlantic), I cannot pretend to be insulated
from these Westernized inclinations, but I can say with the utmost sincerity
that these places require a reconsideration, a closer look. Through this blog, I hope your perceptions
will change along with mine, and that you’ll feel a little (or a lot) of the
love that already envelops me here in Al-Maghrib.
Yours,
Jillian